Ticao Island

Ticao floats between the Bicol mainland and Masbate, separated from Sorsogon by the deep, current-swept Ticao Pass, the reason divers around the world know this island's name. Above the waterline it is all fishing villages, mangroves and boat-only coves. The island is divided into four municipalities: San Jacinto (the mother town, where the dive resorts and the ferry from Bulan are), Monreal in the north-west, San Fernando in the north-east and Batuan in the south.
Ticao has more places to stay than the rest of the province put together, and almost nothing is bookable online.
Things to do on Ticao
Dive the Manta Bowl. An underwater seamount in Ticao Pass where manta rays gather at cleaning stations essentially year-round, with whale sharks passing through roughly February to May. It is an advanced drift dive, not a beginner site: strong current, negative entry, reef hook essential. Budget around ₱2,500 to 3,800 per boat dive. Full diving guide →
Catandayagan Falls. One of the very few waterfalls in the Philippines that plunges straight into the sea, a roughly 100-foot ribbon of water off Ticao's west coast. Boat access only, at its best during and just after the rainy months.
Halea Nature Park, Monreal. A marine reserve with a white-sand cove known as a shark nursery: snorkelers regularly see baby blacktip sharks in the shallows. Basic cottages if you want a castaway night. This is the single best reason to go to the north of the island.
Borobongkaso Rock Formation. A stack of rocks rising out of coralline shallows, the classic photo stop on any island-hopping loop.
Isla Mababoy, Monreal. A small island off Ticao's northern tip, the usual turn-around point on island-hopping trips out of San Fernando and Monreal.
Bongsanglay Natural Park, Batuan. Centuries-old mangrove forest on the south of the island, walkable on boardwalks, and a good reminder that Ticao's history runs deep. The island produced the Ticao Baybayin stones, among the most important pre-colonial script artefacts in the country.
San Jacinto Waterpark. Ticao's first waterpark, on the shore at Brgy. Burgos: pools, a jacuzzi, kayaks and the sea on the other side. The one to know if you are travelling with children, who will get more out of it than out of a dive resort. Details and how to get in →
Just be on the beach. The sand in front of the Tacdugan resorts is dark, not white. The white beaches are a boat ride away, which is exactly why every resort sells island hopping.
Island hopping: what it costs
Boats run roughly ₱2,500 to 8,000 depending on size, from 5 up to 15 people. Out of Monreal the usual quote is ₱2,000 to 2,500 for the boat, plus about ₱500 for a guide and a ₱25 environmental fee. Arrange it through the Monreal Tourism Office, your resort, or Aeon Flux Place in San Fernando, which runs its own trips. Go early: the pass gets choppy in the afternoon.
Where to stay on Ticao
Ten properties, all four municipalities. Full comparison, rates and contacts on the Ticao resorts page →
San Jacinto (the dive side)
- Ticao Island Resort, Sitio Tacdugan. The dive resort that put Ticao on the map: 11 beachfront bungalows, PADI centre, own boat, around ₱1,900 to 2,300 a night. The best-reviewed property in the province.
- Ticao Altamar Boutique Resort. The comfortable option: pool, clubhouse, beachside dining. Rated 4.4/5 on Google, 94% recommended by 201 reviewers on Facebook. Rates on request.
- Tacdugan Lodge. The cheap bed on the same shore as the dive resort. Check before you travel, the page still carries a typhoon renovation notice.
- JPS Beach Resort, Brgy. Calipat-An. Beach resort with a function hall, used for local weddings and reunions as much as for overnight stays.
- San Jacinto Waterpark, Brgy. Burgos. Mainly a day destination.
Batuan (the south)
- Zandra's Beach Resort and Convention Center, Brgy. Canvanez. Batuan's beach resort, built to give the municipality somewhere to put visitors.
- MGM Farm Resort, Lagundi. Hillside, looking down over the sea rather than on a beach, and the only Ticao property genuinely bookable online. Also by far the most expensive, around ₱13,200 a night.
San Fernando (the north-east)
- Marceli Beach Resort, Brgy. Buyo. Small, local, empty most of the year.
- Aeon Flux Place, Poblacion Silangan. In town, with shops and transport on the doorstep, and it runs island-hopping trips.
Monreal (the north-west)
- Nothing open. Francjoreen Beach Resort is listed as permanently closed. If you land at Monreal late, plan on continuing to San Fernando or San Jacinto.
Getting to Ticao
- Bulan (Sorsogon) to San Jacinto, Barrun Sealines (MV Marilou), 1 to 1.5 hours. Leaves Bulan at 08:30, 12:30 and 15:30; back from San Jacinto at 05:30, 10:00 and 13:00.
- Pilar (Sorsogon) to Monreal, local fastcraft, about 1.5 hours, mornings. Confirm locally before counting on it.
- Masbate City to Ticao via Lagundi port, local boats, about an hour on the water, mornings only.
Bulan to San Jacinto is the route divers take, and the one most resorts will meet you off. Ferries run mornings to early afternoon only, there are no evening crossings, and a cancelled boat is a normal part of travelling here. Full ferry timetables and fares →
Practical notes
- Bring cash. There are no ATMs on the island.
- Two SIMs. Carry both Globe and Smart, coverage is patchy and differs village to village.
- Wifi is not a given. At the dive resorts it usually reaches the restaurant, mostly in the evening.
- Reef shoes. Much of the shoreline is coral rubble rather than sand.
- Message ahead. Almost nothing on Ticao publishes a price list. Facebook Messenger gets a same-day reply far more reliably than email.